Three
JOURNEY TO GAUCHER / SONLA
The buses picked up speed at the outskirts of Dehradun and soon we were passing through the jungles of Lacchi-wala, where monkeys could be seen on both the sides of the road. Except the noise of the passing vehicles and the voice of birds, the atmosphere was calm. We crossed through Doiwala, over the bridge, passed along the Jolly Grant Air strip and soon were negotiating the turns and bends of the Rani Pokhri forests where a board read: "Beware of Elephants". Another board contained the appeal: "We (Elephants) are your friends, do not harm us".
Within a few minutes, the buses were on the roads of Rishikesh. At 7:55 A.M. we passed in front of Gurudwara Hemkund (Rishikesh),-an imposing building having sprawling lawns and many ‘sarais’. The ascent started from the Sivananda Ashram. We had a view of the Ganga River. It was in spate with muddy yellow brown water. For the first time we were travelling uphill beyond Rishikesh. So, we had the craze to enjoy nature in all its possible details.
Across the Ganges, buildings of various Ashrams, restaurants and shops presented a magnificent view. Ram Jhoola and Laxman Jhoola were now behind us. We were proceeding in the Ganga valley gaining height almost every minute. The river remained in view - sometimes near and sometimes far away. As we pushed on, successive mountain ranges, covered with a natural clothing of forest vegetation, also appeared rising.
By now, we had three servings comprising snacks, kachori, fruit and toffees etc. all inside the speeding bus.
At Kodiyal, we halted for breakfast. The halwai had already reached there. He re-heated vegetables. Every yatri was requested to have his share of the food in his own utensils. Hot tea was also served. The Kirtni Jatha of our group recited Gurbani Kirtan for some time. But in our bus, the presence of S. Bhupinder Singh Gandhi and S. Manjit Singh Duggal made the journey lively throughout, as they contributed greatly by way of dedicated Kirtan and recitation of Gurbani.
Kodiyal was a nice resting place for the tourists, as it had shops, some good space for resting, public conveniences and its location being near the Ganges was quite attractive. We remained there from 9:15 to 10:30 A.M.
At 11:25 AM, Devprayag, the meeting place of the rivers Bhagirathi and Alaknanda came to our view from the high altitude. The courses of both the rivers, as well as, their meeting point, forming a 'Y' and the distinct colour of the waters was visible. Our buses descended down to the river level and crossed the bridge over Bhagirathi to take to the valley of Alaknanda. After a pretty long descent, we started ascending again. Devprayag being situated at 3000 feet above sea level is a famous pilgrimage centre.
Now, we were moving on the road made by cutting sloppy rocks of high mountains. Sometimes the road curved in a bend and the river below appeared quite in a line. Therefore, cautious driving was the key for safety.
The programme for 5-7-2002 was to reach Joshimath Gurudwara and stay there for the night. Our bus, being No.1, normally remained ahead of the others. Since the destination was quite clear, our driver carried on.
We passed through the serpentine bazaar of Srinagar at 12:35 pm. Here, the terrain is comparatively plain and the Alaknanda also flows at plain ground and not through the valley. Many government offices as well as the Garhwal University are located here. It is an ancient yet developed and a famous city of Uttaranchal State.
Mesmerized by the enticing beauty of the woodlands, we got lost in our imagination relating to the further unfolding of the journey. The road passed along thick forests on our right and the left side was quite low in altitude but thickly bushed. The bus reduced its speed and was soon parked on the left side. All of us alighted. Soon it was learnt that this was a break for lunch and the hosting place was village Narkota. Our halwais were already on their job. The village had some houses and some thatched shops on the roadside. Drinking water and other facilities were available there. Some of the down coming motorbikes and vehicles donning mini Nishan Sahib did pause for the refreshing hospitality of this place. As soon as the lunch was ready, the yatris were asked to have their respective share. Hot rice and spiced Rajmah, with a piece of pickle, tasted excellent and every body was all praise for the preparation. By way of sweet dish, one dussehri mango each was served to the yatris. Some children did insist for the packed snacks that were on display in the local shops. Having relished an admirable lunch, a rest in the healthy atmosphere and brief strolling on the spot, we packed off for the next stop.
Passing through Narkota and Gulabarai, we reached Rudarprayag at 3:25 P.M. Winding through this pilgrim centre, we reached Gaucher at 4:10 PM. Here the traffic police informed us that the road was blocked due to a landslide before Nandprayag. He also wanted the driver to park the vehicle in the open space nearby, where a number of other vehicles were already parked. Our driver thought that by the time we reach near the spot of landslide, the road would stand cleared. The driver pressed on forward with this hope.
At 4:30 pm we reached Karanprayag bus stand. The driver obtained more information about the landslide. The extent of damage to road was not known. Still the driver preferred to go ahead. Some other vehicles were also seen moving forward. At 5:10 P.M., we reached the village Langasu.
Here, the driver obtained more information about the landslide. It was learnt from various sources that the road could only be opened for traffic by mid-day tomorrow. On both sides of the landslide, a large number of vehicles were stranded. It was also not easy to return to Gauchar (30 K.M.) as at every safe place on road, vehicles were parked. The problem of passing the night by the roadside and that of arranging drinking water, tea, food etc. stared us in the face. Since it was not advisable to go back, or go too far, the driver parked the bus on the roadside in front of a shop. It was village Sonla. It is situated on the level ground between the road and the river. An auto service shop was at hand. A small restaurant was also in sight. Just 200 yards behind was a sharp turn. Near the turn, there stood a number of shops and a school.
As we were waiting for the arrival of the six buses left behind, it was presumed that the buses had not been allowed to leave Gauchar.
At Sonla, the shopkeeper was contacted for help. The shopkeeper, a lean, soft spoken and well-mannered gentleman, who had lived in Mumbai for a number of years, promised us all possible help.
For preparing tea, a big pan, tea, sugar and milk were supplied by the shopkeeper. Water was already available from the nearby tap. We had L.P.G. cylinder but not the stove. So, an improvised fireplace was made and dry wood branches, stacked just at hand, were used to prepare tea. As we were concentrating on preparing tea, beseeching the Fire God, village folk were curiously observing all our actions. Suddenly, an old woman with a mildly wrinkled face, sneaked in and let loose a volley of verbal shots at us saying "The dry wood you are using, is not a windfall. It is available here because of our labour and sweat". The revered lady silenced us. She was right but we were helpless. Her rage was intenser than the fire that burned under the kettle. As the elderly are considered respect worthy, we mollified her through soft conversation wrapped in respectful terms. After some time her anger cooled off and she showered blessings for our pilgrimage. Then she shared tea with us and returned to her house. The villagers also thinned away leaving us to our fate. Ready tea was supplied to all the yatris together with biscuits. It was a happy experience and the yatris were responding in cooperative spirit.
Getting this relief (after we had some breakfast at Kodiyal) we had some strolling in the nearby area. ‘Cheer’, trees were decorating the mountains. On the high ridges the trees looked like the mein on the hunchback camels. The roaring noise of Alaknanda waters was clearly audible. A small village, on the other side of the river nestled in the midst of the mountains, added more life in the jungles, as electric light of different density was trickling through thick web of trees.
It was decided to arrange rice pulao for dinner. Rice, tomato, onions and requisite condiments were procured from the shopkeeper. He was also nice enough to arrange a gas stove for the time being. The rice pulao had to be prepared in two installments, as the available pan was not so big as to contain all rice for boiling in one go. The pulao was ready before 9 P.M. Everybody enjoyed it, in its own relish.
The shopkeeper had spared a room adjacent to his shop for ladies to rest. Outside, verandah was available for gents. Some persons also rested in the bus. This was the best possible arrangement as, otherwise, no resting place was available in the village.
A nearby house owner had thrown open conveniences for use by the ladies. So, practically, no difficulties were encountered, since the time we stopped at the village.
One by one, all of us retired for rest. The shopkeeper had also closed the shop for night. In the deep dark mountains lights flickered from the small villages signifying human population, amidst the wilderness
It was morning of 6/7, when we woke up at Sonla village over the make shift beds. Every body was getting ready in his own way and as per convenience available. Some were strolling, some brushing teeth, some taking bath and some had already finished all that. Some persons were also seen doing ‘ Paath’ in aloofness. We were all at home in the lap of nature.
As the gas stove was demanded back, tea had to be prepared as early as possible. Again, we procured raw material from the shopkeeper and tea was prepared quite easily. The yatris were requested to have tea and snacks. After the morning tea was over, the gas stove was returned to the gentleman who had obliged us with its use. We were thankful to him for this specific help. The shopkeeper was thus specially thanked, as he arranged the stove for us. All the payments due to him were promptly made. Deep gratitude was expressed to him for sparing one room and the verandah for the yatris. He gave us a glimpse of his past days which he spent in Mumbai together with his father, mother and his own family. He also told us how he got arranged a water tank at the hill above to ensure supply of drinking water to the village and travelling public through taps. He was a very sociable person.
As time passed, we grew optimistic to re-start the journey. But we had no information about the other buses. Now, we felt like having breakfast. But no facilities were easily available. So, to tide over this minor problem, it was decided to arrange ready breakfast from some dhaba. Such a dhaba was located 1 kilometer back on the route. So, some gentleman went there, got parathas and vegetables ready. These parathas were distributed amongst the yatris together with vegetable and pickle. Every body got satisfied for the time being.
Meanwhile, school children of the village in their light blue and white uniform were leaving for their school. The womenfolk were seen going out with sickles etc. towards the jungles for collecting dead wood for their hearths and fodder for their livestock. Men folk too were busy in their own vocations. The shopkeeper was now on active duty in his shop in which he had stocked everything that one may need in daily life. Soft drinks, mineral water and crisp chips packets were also on display to cater to the requirements of the tourists. Stationery items were also available for the students. Even the attractive school bags with different logos were seen in hangers. The shopkeeper was a little busy machine, as his shop was situated at a vintage location.
Waiting was cumbersome. We were waiting for news of clearance of the landslide. We had been missing our companions. We felt devoid of mutual interaction, activities and experience due to their absence. Our programme for the yesternight had gone haywire. Our togetherness at the langar was also out of gear. We had a little leftover material in our bus whereas all the essential stocks were there in other buses. So, reaching straight at Gobind Ghat and not stopping at Joshimath, was the sane option before us. We expected that our remaining buses would make up for Gobind Ghat.
Now, we were both mid-way and at mid-day. Now we were expecting some good news any time. And to our great happiness, we found some vehicles speeding down towards us. Thereafter virtually a stream of vehicles followed. The obstacle of landslide had been removed. We did not want to rush up. We waited to ensure that all the stuck up vehicles had moved out and the road was clear for the normal traffic.
It was 1 p.m. mid day of 6/7. Down coming vehicles comprised of the normal traffic. Also vehicles parked behind at different places were speeding up the hill. Our passengers were back at their seats. The bus was ready to move. The engine was put on. The driver wanted a simple nod- and the nod was: "Bole So Nihal, Sat Sri Akal". The bus moved on leaving behind Sonla, its inhabitants and the brisk shopkeeper who played us the gracious host- a fact that will go deep into our memory and become history.
As was gathered later on, all the six buses when reached Gauchar one after the other, were not allowed to proceed any further. The buses were parked in a spacious ground where a large number of vehicles were already parked. The Jathedar was in a quandary. He dispatched the pantry jeep to contact us. The driver returned after covering a few kilometers as he could not get any information about our whereabouts. The six bus yatris spent the night at Gauchar. On 6/7 they impatiently waited for the down coming vehicles. After 2 p.m. their waiting was over. All the buses began plying. They were hopeful to meet us at some place but that did not happen on July 6th. They left Gauchar without us and we had left Sonla without them.
www.hemkundji.com
JOURNEY TO GAUCHER / SONLA
The buses picked up speed at the outskirts of Dehradun and soon we were passing through the jungles of Lacchi-wala, where monkeys could be seen on both the sides of the road. Except the noise of the passing vehicles and the voice of birds, the atmosphere was calm. We crossed through Doiwala, over the bridge, passed along the Jolly Grant Air strip and soon were negotiating the turns and bends of the Rani Pokhri forests where a board read: "Beware of Elephants". Another board contained the appeal: "We (Elephants) are your friends, do not harm us".
Within a few minutes, the buses were on the roads of Rishikesh. At 7:55 A.M. we passed in front of Gurudwara Hemkund (Rishikesh),-an imposing building having sprawling lawns and many ‘sarais’. The ascent started from the Sivananda Ashram. We had a view of the Ganga River. It was in spate with muddy yellow brown water. For the first time we were travelling uphill beyond Rishikesh. So, we had the craze to enjoy nature in all its possible details.
Across the Ganges, buildings of various Ashrams, restaurants and shops presented a magnificent view. Ram Jhoola and Laxman Jhoola were now behind us. We were proceeding in the Ganga valley gaining height almost every minute. The river remained in view - sometimes near and sometimes far away. As we pushed on, successive mountain ranges, covered with a natural clothing of forest vegetation, also appeared rising.
By now, we had three servings comprising snacks, kachori, fruit and toffees etc. all inside the speeding bus.
At Kodiyal, we halted for breakfast. The halwai had already reached there. He re-heated vegetables. Every yatri was requested to have his share of the food in his own utensils. Hot tea was also served. The Kirtni Jatha of our group recited Gurbani Kirtan for some time. But in our bus, the presence of S. Bhupinder Singh Gandhi and S. Manjit Singh Duggal made the journey lively throughout, as they contributed greatly by way of dedicated Kirtan and recitation of Gurbani.
Kodiyal was a nice resting place for the tourists, as it had shops, some good space for resting, public conveniences and its location being near the Ganges was quite attractive. We remained there from 9:15 to 10:30 A.M.
At 11:25 AM, Devprayag, the meeting place of the rivers Bhagirathi and Alaknanda came to our view from the high altitude. The courses of both the rivers, as well as, their meeting point, forming a 'Y' and the distinct colour of the waters was visible. Our buses descended down to the river level and crossed the bridge over Bhagirathi to take to the valley of Alaknanda. After a pretty long descent, we started ascending again. Devprayag being situated at 3000 feet above sea level is a famous pilgrimage centre.
Now, we were moving on the road made by cutting sloppy rocks of high mountains. Sometimes the road curved in a bend and the river below appeared quite in a line. Therefore, cautious driving was the key for safety.
The programme for 5-7-2002 was to reach Joshimath Gurudwara and stay there for the night. Our bus, being No.1, normally remained ahead of the others. Since the destination was quite clear, our driver carried on.
We passed through the serpentine bazaar of Srinagar at 12:35 pm. Here, the terrain is comparatively plain and the Alaknanda also flows at plain ground and not through the valley. Many government offices as well as the Garhwal University are located here. It is an ancient yet developed and a famous city of Uttaranchal State.
Mesmerized by the enticing beauty of the woodlands, we got lost in our imagination relating to the further unfolding of the journey. The road passed along thick forests on our right and the left side was quite low in altitude but thickly bushed. The bus reduced its speed and was soon parked on the left side. All of us alighted. Soon it was learnt that this was a break for lunch and the hosting place was village Narkota. Our halwais were already on their job. The village had some houses and some thatched shops on the roadside. Drinking water and other facilities were available there. Some of the down coming motorbikes and vehicles donning mini Nishan Sahib did pause for the refreshing hospitality of this place. As soon as the lunch was ready, the yatris were asked to have their respective share. Hot rice and spiced Rajmah, with a piece of pickle, tasted excellent and every body was all praise for the preparation. By way of sweet dish, one dussehri mango each was served to the yatris. Some children did insist for the packed snacks that were on display in the local shops. Having relished an admirable lunch, a rest in the healthy atmosphere and brief strolling on the spot, we packed off for the next stop.
Passing through Narkota and Gulabarai, we reached Rudarprayag at 3:25 P.M. Winding through this pilgrim centre, we reached Gaucher at 4:10 PM. Here the traffic police informed us that the road was blocked due to a landslide before Nandprayag. He also wanted the driver to park the vehicle in the open space nearby, where a number of other vehicles were already parked. Our driver thought that by the time we reach near the spot of landslide, the road would stand cleared. The driver pressed on forward with this hope.
At 4:30 pm we reached Karanprayag bus stand. The driver obtained more information about the landslide. The extent of damage to road was not known. Still the driver preferred to go ahead. Some other vehicles were also seen moving forward. At 5:10 P.M., we reached the village Langasu.
Here, the driver obtained more information about the landslide. It was learnt from various sources that the road could only be opened for traffic by mid-day tomorrow. On both sides of the landslide, a large number of vehicles were stranded. It was also not easy to return to Gauchar (30 K.M.) as at every safe place on road, vehicles were parked. The problem of passing the night by the roadside and that of arranging drinking water, tea, food etc. stared us in the face. Since it was not advisable to go back, or go too far, the driver parked the bus on the roadside in front of a shop. It was village Sonla. It is situated on the level ground between the road and the river. An auto service shop was at hand. A small restaurant was also in sight. Just 200 yards behind was a sharp turn. Near the turn, there stood a number of shops and a school.
As we were waiting for the arrival of the six buses left behind, it was presumed that the buses had not been allowed to leave Gauchar.
At Sonla, the shopkeeper was contacted for help. The shopkeeper, a lean, soft spoken and well-mannered gentleman, who had lived in Mumbai for a number of years, promised us all possible help.
For preparing tea, a big pan, tea, sugar and milk were supplied by the shopkeeper. Water was already available from the nearby tap. We had L.P.G. cylinder but not the stove. So, an improvised fireplace was made and dry wood branches, stacked just at hand, were used to prepare tea. As we were concentrating on preparing tea, beseeching the Fire God, village folk were curiously observing all our actions. Suddenly, an old woman with a mildly wrinkled face, sneaked in and let loose a volley of verbal shots at us saying "The dry wood you are using, is not a windfall. It is available here because of our labour and sweat". The revered lady silenced us. She was right but we were helpless. Her rage was intenser than the fire that burned under the kettle. As the elderly are considered respect worthy, we mollified her through soft conversation wrapped in respectful terms. After some time her anger cooled off and she showered blessings for our pilgrimage. Then she shared tea with us and returned to her house. The villagers also thinned away leaving us to our fate. Ready tea was supplied to all the yatris together with biscuits. It was a happy experience and the yatris were responding in cooperative spirit.
Getting this relief (after we had some breakfast at Kodiyal) we had some strolling in the nearby area. ‘Cheer’, trees were decorating the mountains. On the high ridges the trees looked like the mein on the hunchback camels. The roaring noise of Alaknanda waters was clearly audible. A small village, on the other side of the river nestled in the midst of the mountains, added more life in the jungles, as electric light of different density was trickling through thick web of trees.
It was decided to arrange rice pulao for dinner. Rice, tomato, onions and requisite condiments were procured from the shopkeeper. He was also nice enough to arrange a gas stove for the time being. The rice pulao had to be prepared in two installments, as the available pan was not so big as to contain all rice for boiling in one go. The pulao was ready before 9 P.M. Everybody enjoyed it, in its own relish.
The shopkeeper had spared a room adjacent to his shop for ladies to rest. Outside, verandah was available for gents. Some persons also rested in the bus. This was the best possible arrangement as, otherwise, no resting place was available in the village.
A nearby house owner had thrown open conveniences for use by the ladies. So, practically, no difficulties were encountered, since the time we stopped at the village.
One by one, all of us retired for rest. The shopkeeper had also closed the shop for night. In the deep dark mountains lights flickered from the small villages signifying human population, amidst the wilderness
It was morning of 6/7, when we woke up at Sonla village over the make shift beds. Every body was getting ready in his own way and as per convenience available. Some were strolling, some brushing teeth, some taking bath and some had already finished all that. Some persons were also seen doing ‘ Paath’ in aloofness. We were all at home in the lap of nature.
As the gas stove was demanded back, tea had to be prepared as early as possible. Again, we procured raw material from the shopkeeper and tea was prepared quite easily. The yatris were requested to have tea and snacks. After the morning tea was over, the gas stove was returned to the gentleman who had obliged us with its use. We were thankful to him for this specific help. The shopkeeper was thus specially thanked, as he arranged the stove for us. All the payments due to him were promptly made. Deep gratitude was expressed to him for sparing one room and the verandah for the yatris. He gave us a glimpse of his past days which he spent in Mumbai together with his father, mother and his own family. He also told us how he got arranged a water tank at the hill above to ensure supply of drinking water to the village and travelling public through taps. He was a very sociable person.
As time passed, we grew optimistic to re-start the journey. But we had no information about the other buses. Now, we felt like having breakfast. But no facilities were easily available. So, to tide over this minor problem, it was decided to arrange ready breakfast from some dhaba. Such a dhaba was located 1 kilometer back on the route. So, some gentleman went there, got parathas and vegetables ready. These parathas were distributed amongst the yatris together with vegetable and pickle. Every body got satisfied for the time being.
Meanwhile, school children of the village in their light blue and white uniform were leaving for their school. The womenfolk were seen going out with sickles etc. towards the jungles for collecting dead wood for their hearths and fodder for their livestock. Men folk too were busy in their own vocations. The shopkeeper was now on active duty in his shop in which he had stocked everything that one may need in daily life. Soft drinks, mineral water and crisp chips packets were also on display to cater to the requirements of the tourists. Stationery items were also available for the students. Even the attractive school bags with different logos were seen in hangers. The shopkeeper was a little busy machine, as his shop was situated at a vintage location.
Waiting was cumbersome. We were waiting for news of clearance of the landslide. We had been missing our companions. We felt devoid of mutual interaction, activities and experience due to their absence. Our programme for the yesternight had gone haywire. Our togetherness at the langar was also out of gear. We had a little leftover material in our bus whereas all the essential stocks were there in other buses. So, reaching straight at Gobind Ghat and not stopping at Joshimath, was the sane option before us. We expected that our remaining buses would make up for Gobind Ghat.
Now, we were both mid-way and at mid-day. Now we were expecting some good news any time. And to our great happiness, we found some vehicles speeding down towards us. Thereafter virtually a stream of vehicles followed. The obstacle of landslide had been removed. We did not want to rush up. We waited to ensure that all the stuck up vehicles had moved out and the road was clear for the normal traffic.
It was 1 p.m. mid day of 6/7. Down coming vehicles comprised of the normal traffic. Also vehicles parked behind at different places were speeding up the hill. Our passengers were back at their seats. The bus was ready to move. The engine was put on. The driver wanted a simple nod- and the nod was: "Bole So Nihal, Sat Sri Akal". The bus moved on leaving behind Sonla, its inhabitants and the brisk shopkeeper who played us the gracious host- a fact that will go deep into our memory and become history.
As was gathered later on, all the six buses when reached Gauchar one after the other, were not allowed to proceed any further. The buses were parked in a spacious ground where a large number of vehicles were already parked. The Jathedar was in a quandary. He dispatched the pantry jeep to contact us. The driver returned after covering a few kilometers as he could not get any information about our whereabouts. The six bus yatris spent the night at Gauchar. On 6/7 they impatiently waited for the down coming vehicles. After 2 p.m. their waiting was over. All the buses began plying. They were hopeful to meet us at some place but that did not happen on July 6th. They left Gauchar without us and we had left Sonla without them.
www.hemkundji.com
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