Eight
JOURNEY - GOVIND GHAT TO GOVIND DHAM
It was at 4 AM when we woke up in the morning of 8th July 2002. Some of our companions appeared to have left their beds even earlier than us. The bed was squeezed a bit. We left for the langar hall to take tea, as tea was ever available from 4 AM to midnight for yatris. After taking tea, completing other activities, including bathing, we were nearly ready. Items and clothes that had to be carried were kept in the four shoulder bags. Bottles for Amrit, torches, edibles, medicines, glucose and camera etc. were rechecked for their presence in the bags. All the unwanted things were consigned to the attache case or the bedroll. Both these items were to be deposited at the ‘gathri ghar’. So, both these items were carried to that place. Even at those early hours the queue was quite a long one. It took more than half an hour to get the two items deposited. Actually, it was a time consuming job for the sevadars to receive, check, count and stock the items properly in the racks inside. Other yatris were going ahead after depositing their extra belongings. Many of our friends were standing in the line behind, whereas some were still to come up with their luggage.
After my job was over, I returned to my hall. All the blankets were folded, counted and returned to the store room together with the three durries. Our companions, who passed the night in the nearby hotels, also joined us.
Meanwhile we left for the langar hall. We had tea, chapati and dal. It was sufficient for the time being, as it is troublesome to move uphill with the belly full. For the entire 13 K.M. uphill trek, we had sufficient provisions. Even on the way, many small dhabas were stated to be available where one could have refreshment.
We returned to the hall and found that our companions were taking to the journey one by one. Porters and horse owners were contacting the needy and settling the charges with mutual consent. Some hired porters only for the children and bags. Horses were also hired by many of our friends. Horse owners and porters were present in strength to strike business, as this place was the first and initial one for the incoming yatris, from where the uphill road starts. Yatris from all the halls were pouring out and advancing towards the bridge to cross the Alaknanda.
With bags on our shoulders and one stick each with us, we walked to the Darbar Sahib room and offered prayers for a safe journey and successful yatra. The ‘Bhai ji’ (priest) blessed us with parshad. Like us, other yatris were also begging for blessings from the Almighty. We returned and headed for the bridge becoming one amongst the many other fellow travellers and yatris.
Our feelings of hope and joy knew no bounds when we stopped on the bridge over the mighty Alaknanda at 6:30 a.m. Our sticks also stamped on the bridge, as a token of the march. A huge body of water, simply colourless, was flowing down from our left side. What a terrific flow!
Many horses were seen standing on the hillside, after we crossed the bridge. The owners were requesting the passers by to hire one upto Gobind Dham. Several yatris hired these animals at this spot also. We also handed over one of our bags to a friend, who had hired a horse.
With every step, we were gaining altitude. After crossing a few turns, we reached near the first dhaba, having a shanty roof over it. All the buildings right from the bus stop to the Gurudwara complex were clearly visible. Upto this point, the movement of yatris was visible from the bus stop but beyond the road was not in sight. We were moving on the road made at the left side mountains. On our right hand was flowing the Dhauli Ganga and beyond the river, rose the high rocky mountains. On our left, large parts of rock were lying perched at different heights, which looked awful. Only ‘cheer’ trees and the forest vegetation was in sight. The population appeared sparse. The road was made of rock pieces and stones of various sizes. This was to withstand the traffic of humans and animals, as no portion was metalled with premix of coal tar. We also did not pass by any stray grazing livestock. We were moving amongst the moving yatris. The yatris on horsebacks were moving fast. The porters were also better at their speed as compared to normal public. The loaded horses sometimes posed danger, as they carried items like planks, ghee canisters, kerosene containers and bags of grocery items for shops situated further at higher levels. These horses sometimes give a dangerous pass to the pedestrians, who escape narrowly from falling down into the 'khud'. By grace of Providence; we had such a narrow escape, when a horse forcibly passed through the space available between PARAMJEET and me. I stumbled, but remained firm on feet. The horseman took to his heels and vanished quickly. Horsemen do give warning calls to the travelling public but when the animal goes awry due to any reason, any unfortunate happening could be warded off only by ‘God’ Himself.
The watch showed 8 :05 a.m. We were happy to be at the outskirts of Pulna Gaon. Here the valley was wider. The village comprising a few houses was situated on a tract of long tableland. Here a small school was also on work. Some grown vegetation and livestock were also seen here. Some scattered clusters of apple trees did add to the beauty of the landscape. The road passed along this village.
The road ahead was very arduous. It was not plain, but a chain of successive stairs made of large rock plates and stones. With prayers to Guru Gobind Singh ji, we stepped on slowly. The sticks were very helpful. Glucose biscuits and roasted gram were occasionally used. Simple water had to be sipped every now and then. At the dhabas, a short duration rest was also taken. These dhabas played a very useful role to break the monotony of the yatra, as every such eating and resting place directly and indirectly, refreshed the yatris through packed, fresh and hot variety of edibles.
We reached village Bheudar by 11-15 A.M. Gobind Dham was still 5 K.M. away. It was known that the journey ahead was continuously tough. Moreover, fatigue was telling down on body. The resting gaps were now shorter. Whatever be the position, we had to move on. While passing through this village, we noticed the presence of livestock and also were seen some fields containing some kind of crops, not known to us.
After a kilometer from Bheudar, the Dhauliganga (some call it HimGanga valley) turned left. Just at the turn facing right hand direction, another tributary was joining the HimGanga. The tributary was flowing out of another distinct valley and its water looked like a cascade. Far off was the Hathi Parbat, which commanded a great altitude. Here the valley was a bit wider. The high mountains stood apart. Here the jungles were dense. We were moving almost at the bank of HimGanga, where the road surface was not so high than the river water level. The tumultuous currents were a wonderful scene.
It was about one K.M. away from the turn of the river, that we reached the bridge spanning the river. Before the bridge was situated a dhaba, besides the two after the bridge. It was learnt that these dhabas were the last such places upto Gobind Dham. These are situated at the prestigious location that is 10 K.M. away from Gobind Ghat and 3 KM short of Gobind Dham. All around nature was in its full bloom. Upstream, the glacier appeared to osculate the skyline. We sat at the chair of the first dhaba. The red plastic chairs lying in the open space of jungle and river environs looked different as compared to the atmosphere of mundane city life. For us every bit around us was new and magnetic.
Having chatted for about 20 minutes at the dhaba chairs, we moved forward at 11 PM. over the bridge, under which perennial waters of the HimGanga flowed like that of the Alaknanda waters at Gobind Ghat. The flow of HimGanga was violent and horrible. It was observed, that right from this area of HimGanga down to its confluence point with Alaknanda at Gobind Ghat, it flows around the same high mountain almost course of half a circle.
Some of our companions were still resting in these dhabas. But those on horseback must have reached Gobind Dham long back. We were also nearing our destination. After about hundred yards from the bridge, we began the uphill march. The stone made stairs had started. Now, we were pretty weary. This was clear from our speed. Whosoever coming from the opposite side, was encouraging all the uphill going yatris to buck up saying "you are very near the Gurudwara, hurry up". The entire path was full of yatris. So, nobody lost heart. Further, no resting places were available on the way. This path passed through the jungle not dense enough. This ascent was proving toughest of all so far passed over.
Breathing fast, moving slow, taking frequent rest, using glucose, taking Frooti, munching biscuits and having potions of water etc. on the way, we along with others, crossed through the jungle and reached the large flat ground at Ghangharia. Here, a number of small tents had been erected. It was a camping ground and had some links with the Defence Department.
Glaciers were visible from this plain ground. It also had a Helipad - maybe for use in emergency . All around were very high mountains, but this large tract of high land had no trees in it. It was not clear, why this piece of land was devoid of trees. Perhaps it was so made for safety of the aircraft!
The journey was again continued and very soon we were passing through the narrow bazaar. Just a hundred yards before this bazaar, a number of horses were seen resting under the ‘cheer’ trees. After the camp area upto the bazaar, the ground had a forest of ‘cheer’ trees. This portion of the road and the adjoining area was littered with horse dung, which emitted stinking smell due to moisture.
A few shops past, we were standing before the Gurudwara gate - Gobind Dham. It was nearing 4:30 P.M., we had completed the first part of the uphill journey. It was HIS GRACE. We paid obeisance at the gate and entered the Gurudwara with a sense of achievement, which shall remain short of description!
www.hemkundji.com
JOURNEY - GOVIND GHAT TO GOVIND DHAM
It was at 4 AM when we woke up in the morning of 8th July 2002. Some of our companions appeared to have left their beds even earlier than us. The bed was squeezed a bit. We left for the langar hall to take tea, as tea was ever available from 4 AM to midnight for yatris. After taking tea, completing other activities, including bathing, we were nearly ready. Items and clothes that had to be carried were kept in the four shoulder bags. Bottles for Amrit, torches, edibles, medicines, glucose and camera etc. were rechecked for their presence in the bags. All the unwanted things were consigned to the attache case or the bedroll. Both these items were to be deposited at the ‘gathri ghar’. So, both these items were carried to that place. Even at those early hours the queue was quite a long one. It took more than half an hour to get the two items deposited. Actually, it was a time consuming job for the sevadars to receive, check, count and stock the items properly in the racks inside. Other yatris were going ahead after depositing their extra belongings. Many of our friends were standing in the line behind, whereas some were still to come up with their luggage.
After my job was over, I returned to my hall. All the blankets were folded, counted and returned to the store room together with the three durries. Our companions, who passed the night in the nearby hotels, also joined us.
Meanwhile we left for the langar hall. We had tea, chapati and dal. It was sufficient for the time being, as it is troublesome to move uphill with the belly full. For the entire 13 K.M. uphill trek, we had sufficient provisions. Even on the way, many small dhabas were stated to be available where one could have refreshment.
We returned to the hall and found that our companions were taking to the journey one by one. Porters and horse owners were contacting the needy and settling the charges with mutual consent. Some hired porters only for the children and bags. Horses were also hired by many of our friends. Horse owners and porters were present in strength to strike business, as this place was the first and initial one for the incoming yatris, from where the uphill road starts. Yatris from all the halls were pouring out and advancing towards the bridge to cross the Alaknanda.
With bags on our shoulders and one stick each with us, we walked to the Darbar Sahib room and offered prayers for a safe journey and successful yatra. The ‘Bhai ji’ (priest) blessed us with parshad. Like us, other yatris were also begging for blessings from the Almighty. We returned and headed for the bridge becoming one amongst the many other fellow travellers and yatris.
Our feelings of hope and joy knew no bounds when we stopped on the bridge over the mighty Alaknanda at 6:30 a.m. Our sticks also stamped on the bridge, as a token of the march. A huge body of water, simply colourless, was flowing down from our left side. What a terrific flow!
Many horses were seen standing on the hillside, after we crossed the bridge. The owners were requesting the passers by to hire one upto Gobind Dham. Several yatris hired these animals at this spot also. We also handed over one of our bags to a friend, who had hired a horse.
With every step, we were gaining altitude. After crossing a few turns, we reached near the first dhaba, having a shanty roof over it. All the buildings right from the bus stop to the Gurudwara complex were clearly visible. Upto this point, the movement of yatris was visible from the bus stop but beyond the road was not in sight. We were moving on the road made at the left side mountains. On our right hand was flowing the Dhauli Ganga and beyond the river, rose the high rocky mountains. On our left, large parts of rock were lying perched at different heights, which looked awful. Only ‘cheer’ trees and the forest vegetation was in sight. The population appeared sparse. The road was made of rock pieces and stones of various sizes. This was to withstand the traffic of humans and animals, as no portion was metalled with premix of coal tar. We also did not pass by any stray grazing livestock. We were moving amongst the moving yatris. The yatris on horsebacks were moving fast. The porters were also better at their speed as compared to normal public. The loaded horses sometimes posed danger, as they carried items like planks, ghee canisters, kerosene containers and bags of grocery items for shops situated further at higher levels. These horses sometimes give a dangerous pass to the pedestrians, who escape narrowly from falling down into the 'khud'. By grace of Providence; we had such a narrow escape, when a horse forcibly passed through the space available between PARAMJEET and me. I stumbled, but remained firm on feet. The horseman took to his heels and vanished quickly. Horsemen do give warning calls to the travelling public but when the animal goes awry due to any reason, any unfortunate happening could be warded off only by ‘God’ Himself.
The watch showed 8 :05 a.m. We were happy to be at the outskirts of Pulna Gaon. Here the valley was wider. The village comprising a few houses was situated on a tract of long tableland. Here a small school was also on work. Some grown vegetation and livestock were also seen here. Some scattered clusters of apple trees did add to the beauty of the landscape. The road passed along this village.
The road ahead was very arduous. It was not plain, but a chain of successive stairs made of large rock plates and stones. With prayers to Guru Gobind Singh ji, we stepped on slowly. The sticks were very helpful. Glucose biscuits and roasted gram were occasionally used. Simple water had to be sipped every now and then. At the dhabas, a short duration rest was also taken. These dhabas played a very useful role to break the monotony of the yatra, as every such eating and resting place directly and indirectly, refreshed the yatris through packed, fresh and hot variety of edibles.
We reached village Bheudar by 11-15 A.M. Gobind Dham was still 5 K.M. away. It was known that the journey ahead was continuously tough. Moreover, fatigue was telling down on body. The resting gaps were now shorter. Whatever be the position, we had to move on. While passing through this village, we noticed the presence of livestock and also were seen some fields containing some kind of crops, not known to us.
After a kilometer from Bheudar, the Dhauliganga (some call it HimGanga valley) turned left. Just at the turn facing right hand direction, another tributary was joining the HimGanga. The tributary was flowing out of another distinct valley and its water looked like a cascade. Far off was the Hathi Parbat, which commanded a great altitude. Here the valley was a bit wider. The high mountains stood apart. Here the jungles were dense. We were moving almost at the bank of HimGanga, where the road surface was not so high than the river water level. The tumultuous currents were a wonderful scene.
It was about one K.M. away from the turn of the river, that we reached the bridge spanning the river. Before the bridge was situated a dhaba, besides the two after the bridge. It was learnt that these dhabas were the last such places upto Gobind Dham. These are situated at the prestigious location that is 10 K.M. away from Gobind Ghat and 3 KM short of Gobind Dham. All around nature was in its full bloom. Upstream, the glacier appeared to osculate the skyline. We sat at the chair of the first dhaba. The red plastic chairs lying in the open space of jungle and river environs looked different as compared to the atmosphere of mundane city life. For us every bit around us was new and magnetic.
Having chatted for about 20 minutes at the dhaba chairs, we moved forward at 11 PM. over the bridge, under which perennial waters of the HimGanga flowed like that of the Alaknanda waters at Gobind Ghat. The flow of HimGanga was violent and horrible. It was observed, that right from this area of HimGanga down to its confluence point with Alaknanda at Gobind Ghat, it flows around the same high mountain almost course of half a circle.
Some of our companions were still resting in these dhabas. But those on horseback must have reached Gobind Dham long back. We were also nearing our destination. After about hundred yards from the bridge, we began the uphill march. The stone made stairs had started. Now, we were pretty weary. This was clear from our speed. Whosoever coming from the opposite side, was encouraging all the uphill going yatris to buck up saying "you are very near the Gurudwara, hurry up". The entire path was full of yatris. So, nobody lost heart. Further, no resting places were available on the way. This path passed through the jungle not dense enough. This ascent was proving toughest of all so far passed over.
Breathing fast, moving slow, taking frequent rest, using glucose, taking Frooti, munching biscuits and having potions of water etc. on the way, we along with others, crossed through the jungle and reached the large flat ground at Ghangharia. Here, a number of small tents had been erected. It was a camping ground and had some links with the Defence Department.
Glaciers were visible from this plain ground. It also had a Helipad - maybe for use in emergency . All around were very high mountains, but this large tract of high land had no trees in it. It was not clear, why this piece of land was devoid of trees. Perhaps it was so made for safety of the aircraft!
The journey was again continued and very soon we were passing through the narrow bazaar. Just a hundred yards before this bazaar, a number of horses were seen resting under the ‘cheer’ trees. After the camp area upto the bazaar, the ground had a forest of ‘cheer’ trees. This portion of the road and the adjoining area was littered with horse dung, which emitted stinking smell due to moisture.
A few shops past, we were standing before the Gurudwara gate - Gobind Dham. It was nearing 4:30 P.M., we had completed the first part of the uphill journey. It was HIS GRACE. We paid obeisance at the gate and entered the Gurudwara with a sense of achievement, which shall remain short of description!
www.hemkundji.com
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