Eleven
JOURNEY - GOVIND DHAM TO SRI HEMKUND SAHIB
We could see that some shops had opened in the bazaar. Note worthy sale was that of milk, tea, parathas and bread pakoras. Our companions who had been in some of the hotels at night, were also joining the stream of yatris. The small bazaar was also abuzz with the horse owners and porters. Per head horse charge up to Hemkund Sahib was Rs 200/-, whereas a pithoo could be hired for Rs. 100/- for one-way journey. Yatris, like elderly men, women, children or other persons, who for any reason could not walk on at the tedious uphill journey, hired horses for the 6 K.M. trek up to Hemkund Sahib. A porter could be hired for smaller children or carriage of bags etc.
Deserving special mention were the horses, which were the main means of transport there. These horses, primarily meant to provide lift to humans during the yatra period, were tamed nicely and named in colorful names. The horses (actually mares, called by owners as horses) responded to the commands of their owners sincerely and accurately. They were sturdy and sure-footed. By colour they were brown, black, white and some bi-coloured. Some children did prefer a particular colour of the horse. The horse owners prompted their clients with guidelines for safe journey i.e. be slant forward while climbing, do not panic to see the narrow zigzag stairs made of stones and do not feel upset to see the deep gorges. The bags, if any, were balanced on the shoulders of the horses.
PARAMJEET and I preferred to reach atop on foot. But a good number of our companions had hired horses for uphill journey up to Hemkund Sahib. The caravan of humans and horses had set out for a holy mission.
Just about half a kilometer from the Gurudwara, was a small bridge, under which the glacier water flowed. The glacier itself was on our right side. The road turned a bit to our right hand side and we began proceeding along the banks of the glacier. The glacier lay upward majestically in the valley and water gushed out of its thick belly. There were some large gaping holes in the glacier surface. The bridge appeared damaged and drifted from its base due to the downward skidding of the glacier or the impact of the high-speed water channel. After the bridge, there was a guidepost indicating in the left side direction the way for the ‘Valley of Flowers’ famous for its unique high altitude rare multitude of natural flowers. The valley, bounded by very high mountains on three sides and stated to be over three kilometers away from the sign post, was at the most free of snow for about three months after June every year; otherwise, it remained snow clad. Horses were not allowed to tread that area. We had no plans to visit that valley as the flowering time, which brings a riot of colours to the said valley, was stated to be at prime normally from mid-July to mid-August or so. We moved on in the right side direction.
About six-foot wide stone and rock-stitched staircase like path prepared along the right side of the high rise cliff mountain was leading towards the summit. This was blooming with human forms richly clad in colourful clothes that looked like flowers moving while praying and chanting Gurbani. The onslaught of wearing down remained subdued due to strong will of the devotees. Everything around us was new and fresh to us and our eyes were longing to see more and more whenever we rested. Just like others, we tried to enjoy the details of nature. While we were sitting on a stone after a bend, we noticed a writing in white paint, which read 1.200. That meant that a distance of a little over one kilometer only was covered. The remaining five kilometers were yet to be covered. The simple answer was to mind moving up only with courage, better speed and prayers.
On the way, there were roughshod dhabas run by locals. These were nestled on vintage places, turns etc. where gasping yatris could stop, take a little respite and refresh themselves. These tuck shops offered services more or less of the same description as were available during the journey between Gobind Ghat and Gobind Dham. Special importance was definitely being given to the presentation of Aloo Parathas as per Punjabi taste. Every dhaba had benches of wood planks covered with durries or blankets for the comfort of visitors. Depending on the availability of space some had tables decorated with chairs around. Some dhabas played even Punjabi folk music for the amusement and attraction of Punjabis.
As we ascended, the prices of the edibles and soft drinks also increased with reference to the increase in transportation charges. Apart from the pedestrians, the tight sitting and tension ridden horse riders also preferred to refresh at any of the dhabas. The guests were given business oriented honour at the dhabas and mostly the owners were not found wanting in manners. The owners were pretty well aware that their peak business season graced with the journey of yatris was limited almost to four months. They had to make the dhaba ready before start of the yatra season.
The entire dhaba structure was a skeleton of wood- basically ‘cheer’ tree logs and planks. The deftness with which the backside logs were drilled deep into the sharp slopes was commendable. The sturdy logs were tied tightly and nailed. The surface planks were joined together with long nails-leaving no room for looseness. One could hardly feel that the platform, on which he was sitting, was hollow underneath. The basement was, however, made rock firm and secure through a network of crossbars, so as to make it risk proof for the visitors.
We had walked up more than half way when from a turn, the yatris had the first hazy glimpse of the holy Nishan Sahib at an elevation of over 60 degree. The size of the Nishan Sahib and the loudspeaker fixed with it, looked like a small walking stick and that of the hockey ball respectively. We could also see the furling flag and the shining khanda atop the Nishan Sahib. A part of the Gurudwara roof was also visible, as it reflected sunlight.
We carried on our march forward chanting ‘His’ name and would have covered about a kilometer when the voice of the Gurudwara granthi was first heard through the loudspeaker. The time of the First Ardas fixed for 9: 15 a.m. was nearing fast. The Bhai ji was reciting Gurbani and giving related Sermons to the devotees, who were in attendance inside the Gurudwara. We also listened to the Bhai ji through the loud speaker, with rampant attention, till the Ardas was over. We were still far below the Gurudwara. So, it was hoped that by 11:15, the time for the Second Ardas, we would be inside the Gurudwara. That was really our heartfelt desire and prayer.
We were rejoicing in the lap of nature. We felt that a part of our fatigue was getting off set by nature and its bounties. On our left, was the majestic high mountain and on the right, deep gorges and sounding waters. Behind us but very far off, were shining large tracts of snow, perched between and on top of the high peaks. These snow stocks and glaciers were not visible from down below. Now, we could see from such an altitude at which we were on the move, as to how immeasurable natural assets of snow blessed the rivers with a perennial supply of water. We saw that the glacier to our right side grew larger upwards steadily.
We also saw that at intervals, the horses who had ferried yatris to the top, were crossing us on their return journey to Gobind Dham. Some horse owners offered to provide a lift to the up-going yatris, but on an uncompromising high rate. Appreciable was the will of those pilgrims, who were resolute to reach Hemkund Sahib under all circumstances-even by hiring palkies. It is a different mode of movement. A palky is made of two long poles of strong wood. At the center between the two poles a chair like seat is fixed. The client is seated in that. Four bearers, two each in front and back haul the palky in rhythmic steps. Just like a porter, the palky bearers had also got to be very tough and sturdy. The charges per palky were comparatively higher, as the amount was to be divided amongst the four persons.
Our steps were a few yards away from the glacier which we were to walk over. A colourless sheet of snow was before us. A current of pleasure engulfed us, as we began treading over the snow path. Snow on our left was about four feet high and zero on our right. A warning rope was tied on fixed poles on our right to guide the pedestrians and animals to walk on safer side. We walked on snow with the help of bamboo sticks sometimes pricking them into snow. This small part of the journey, special in its being and over a hundred feet in length was very risky. Traffic passed over it on both the sides. One could slip, so, maximum care had to be taken while crossing this length of the path. Praying and singing hymns, the yatris went on. On the snow path, human figures looked pygmies against the backdrop of the huge plate of snow. Two men were busy on the job to maintain the path clear of snow, with shovels. Ripples of fear were felt in spine while the glacier passage was trudged.
After crossing the snow, we again found some dhabas by the roadside with the yatris sitting inside them. We had our snacks, edibles, soft drinks and dry fruits with us, which were being used to beat hunger and fatigue. The glacier was now to our left and appeared as if touching the sky. Few bends changed our direction. Now, to the left of our zigzag path lay countless black large cube like boulders, which appeared to have broken apart from the high peaks in the process of natural geographic changes. Even under these huge stones, water oozed out.
Now, we were crossing over an improvised bridge under which fast stream of snow water flowed tumultuously. There were no safety planks on the sides of this bridge. One had to be very vigilant while crossing over this bridge, as any passing by horse could knock one down.
After crossing the bridge, we reached a very important place where the path bifurcated into two - one long branch for the horses and the other shorter one for the pedestrians. The short path was totally arduous, as it comprised 1125 upward steps. We opted for the steps and bowing to the Welcome Gate built at the start of the footsteps, we started the uphill journey on stone steps. It was a very tough step climbing but not an obstacle for the Guru's devotees.
The steps were formed by fixing large stone plates, cut stones and pieces of requisite sizes for dovetailing and ensuring maximum possible stability. One would wonder, how defty hands had erected the step walls with precision without using cement, mortar and iron. The workmanship reflected devotion and selfless service to the yatris with the blessings of Sri Guru Gobind Singh Ji.
After every few steps, a plain resting place was made to enable the yatris to bring the breathing rate back to normal. It was heartening to note that the entire service upto the formation and maintenance of these steps was done by the Border Roads Organisation. That was a tough and telling work which they undertook in the selfless service of the Guru and His yatris.
As we progressed, the yatris returning from the Gurudwara Hemkund Sahib infused courage into the up-going pilgrims, saying: Buck up-you have done it-Gurudwara is just at hand-"Bole So Nihal Sat Sri Akal.. .etc.," The returning yatris were darting downwards whereas we were yet to reach our destination. Getting invigorated with the courage booster capsules, there was some load shedding of weariness in our bodies. By now, we were having a sense of fulfillment of our cherished objective-' Darshan Snaan' of Sri ‘Hemkund Sahib’.
www.hemkundji.com
JOURNEY - GOVIND DHAM TO SRI HEMKUND SAHIB
We could see that some shops had opened in the bazaar. Note worthy sale was that of milk, tea, parathas and bread pakoras. Our companions who had been in some of the hotels at night, were also joining the stream of yatris. The small bazaar was also abuzz with the horse owners and porters. Per head horse charge up to Hemkund Sahib was Rs 200/-, whereas a pithoo could be hired for Rs. 100/- for one-way journey. Yatris, like elderly men, women, children or other persons, who for any reason could not walk on at the tedious uphill journey, hired horses for the 6 K.M. trek up to Hemkund Sahib. A porter could be hired for smaller children or carriage of bags etc.
Deserving special mention were the horses, which were the main means of transport there. These horses, primarily meant to provide lift to humans during the yatra period, were tamed nicely and named in colorful names. The horses (actually mares, called by owners as horses) responded to the commands of their owners sincerely and accurately. They were sturdy and sure-footed. By colour they were brown, black, white and some bi-coloured. Some children did prefer a particular colour of the horse. The horse owners prompted their clients with guidelines for safe journey i.e. be slant forward while climbing, do not panic to see the narrow zigzag stairs made of stones and do not feel upset to see the deep gorges. The bags, if any, were balanced on the shoulders of the horses.
PARAMJEET and I preferred to reach atop on foot. But a good number of our companions had hired horses for uphill journey up to Hemkund Sahib. The caravan of humans and horses had set out for a holy mission.
Just about half a kilometer from the Gurudwara, was a small bridge, under which the glacier water flowed. The glacier itself was on our right side. The road turned a bit to our right hand side and we began proceeding along the banks of the glacier. The glacier lay upward majestically in the valley and water gushed out of its thick belly. There were some large gaping holes in the glacier surface. The bridge appeared damaged and drifted from its base due to the downward skidding of the glacier or the impact of the high-speed water channel. After the bridge, there was a guidepost indicating in the left side direction the way for the ‘Valley of Flowers’ famous for its unique high altitude rare multitude of natural flowers. The valley, bounded by very high mountains on three sides and stated to be over three kilometers away from the sign post, was at the most free of snow for about three months after June every year; otherwise, it remained snow clad. Horses were not allowed to tread that area. We had no plans to visit that valley as the flowering time, which brings a riot of colours to the said valley, was stated to be at prime normally from mid-July to mid-August or so. We moved on in the right side direction.
About six-foot wide stone and rock-stitched staircase like path prepared along the right side of the high rise cliff mountain was leading towards the summit. This was blooming with human forms richly clad in colourful clothes that looked like flowers moving while praying and chanting Gurbani. The onslaught of wearing down remained subdued due to strong will of the devotees. Everything around us was new and fresh to us and our eyes were longing to see more and more whenever we rested. Just like others, we tried to enjoy the details of nature. While we were sitting on a stone after a bend, we noticed a writing in white paint, which read 1.200. That meant that a distance of a little over one kilometer only was covered. The remaining five kilometers were yet to be covered. The simple answer was to mind moving up only with courage, better speed and prayers.
On the way, there were roughshod dhabas run by locals. These were nestled on vintage places, turns etc. where gasping yatris could stop, take a little respite and refresh themselves. These tuck shops offered services more or less of the same description as were available during the journey between Gobind Ghat and Gobind Dham. Special importance was definitely being given to the presentation of Aloo Parathas as per Punjabi taste. Every dhaba had benches of wood planks covered with durries or blankets for the comfort of visitors. Depending on the availability of space some had tables decorated with chairs around. Some dhabas played even Punjabi folk music for the amusement and attraction of Punjabis.
As we ascended, the prices of the edibles and soft drinks also increased with reference to the increase in transportation charges. Apart from the pedestrians, the tight sitting and tension ridden horse riders also preferred to refresh at any of the dhabas. The guests were given business oriented honour at the dhabas and mostly the owners were not found wanting in manners. The owners were pretty well aware that their peak business season graced with the journey of yatris was limited almost to four months. They had to make the dhaba ready before start of the yatra season.
The entire dhaba structure was a skeleton of wood- basically ‘cheer’ tree logs and planks. The deftness with which the backside logs were drilled deep into the sharp slopes was commendable. The sturdy logs were tied tightly and nailed. The surface planks were joined together with long nails-leaving no room for looseness. One could hardly feel that the platform, on which he was sitting, was hollow underneath. The basement was, however, made rock firm and secure through a network of crossbars, so as to make it risk proof for the visitors.
We had walked up more than half way when from a turn, the yatris had the first hazy glimpse of the holy Nishan Sahib at an elevation of over 60 degree. The size of the Nishan Sahib and the loudspeaker fixed with it, looked like a small walking stick and that of the hockey ball respectively. We could also see the furling flag and the shining khanda atop the Nishan Sahib. A part of the Gurudwara roof was also visible, as it reflected sunlight.
We carried on our march forward chanting ‘His’ name and would have covered about a kilometer when the voice of the Gurudwara granthi was first heard through the loudspeaker. The time of the First Ardas fixed for 9: 15 a.m. was nearing fast. The Bhai ji was reciting Gurbani and giving related Sermons to the devotees, who were in attendance inside the Gurudwara. We also listened to the Bhai ji through the loud speaker, with rampant attention, till the Ardas was over. We were still far below the Gurudwara. So, it was hoped that by 11:15, the time for the Second Ardas, we would be inside the Gurudwara. That was really our heartfelt desire and prayer.
We were rejoicing in the lap of nature. We felt that a part of our fatigue was getting off set by nature and its bounties. On our left, was the majestic high mountain and on the right, deep gorges and sounding waters. Behind us but very far off, were shining large tracts of snow, perched between and on top of the high peaks. These snow stocks and glaciers were not visible from down below. Now, we could see from such an altitude at which we were on the move, as to how immeasurable natural assets of snow blessed the rivers with a perennial supply of water. We saw that the glacier to our right side grew larger upwards steadily.
We also saw that at intervals, the horses who had ferried yatris to the top, were crossing us on their return journey to Gobind Dham. Some horse owners offered to provide a lift to the up-going yatris, but on an uncompromising high rate. Appreciable was the will of those pilgrims, who were resolute to reach Hemkund Sahib under all circumstances-even by hiring palkies. It is a different mode of movement. A palky is made of two long poles of strong wood. At the center between the two poles a chair like seat is fixed. The client is seated in that. Four bearers, two each in front and back haul the palky in rhythmic steps. Just like a porter, the palky bearers had also got to be very tough and sturdy. The charges per palky were comparatively higher, as the amount was to be divided amongst the four persons.
Our steps were a few yards away from the glacier which we were to walk over. A colourless sheet of snow was before us. A current of pleasure engulfed us, as we began treading over the snow path. Snow on our left was about four feet high and zero on our right. A warning rope was tied on fixed poles on our right to guide the pedestrians and animals to walk on safer side. We walked on snow with the help of bamboo sticks sometimes pricking them into snow. This small part of the journey, special in its being and over a hundred feet in length was very risky. Traffic passed over it on both the sides. One could slip, so, maximum care had to be taken while crossing this length of the path. Praying and singing hymns, the yatris went on. On the snow path, human figures looked pygmies against the backdrop of the huge plate of snow. Two men were busy on the job to maintain the path clear of snow, with shovels. Ripples of fear were felt in spine while the glacier passage was trudged.
After crossing the snow, we again found some dhabas by the roadside with the yatris sitting inside them. We had our snacks, edibles, soft drinks and dry fruits with us, which were being used to beat hunger and fatigue. The glacier was now to our left and appeared as if touching the sky. Few bends changed our direction. Now, to the left of our zigzag path lay countless black large cube like boulders, which appeared to have broken apart from the high peaks in the process of natural geographic changes. Even under these huge stones, water oozed out.
Now, we were crossing over an improvised bridge under which fast stream of snow water flowed tumultuously. There were no safety planks on the sides of this bridge. One had to be very vigilant while crossing over this bridge, as any passing by horse could knock one down.
After crossing the bridge, we reached a very important place where the path bifurcated into two - one long branch for the horses and the other shorter one for the pedestrians. The short path was totally arduous, as it comprised 1125 upward steps. We opted for the steps and bowing to the Welcome Gate built at the start of the footsteps, we started the uphill journey on stone steps. It was a very tough step climbing but not an obstacle for the Guru's devotees.
The steps were formed by fixing large stone plates, cut stones and pieces of requisite sizes for dovetailing and ensuring maximum possible stability. One would wonder, how defty hands had erected the step walls with precision without using cement, mortar and iron. The workmanship reflected devotion and selfless service to the yatris with the blessings of Sri Guru Gobind Singh Ji.
After every few steps, a plain resting place was made to enable the yatris to bring the breathing rate back to normal. It was heartening to note that the entire service upto the formation and maintenance of these steps was done by the Border Roads Organisation. That was a tough and telling work which they undertook in the selfless service of the Guru and His yatris.
As we progressed, the yatris returning from the Gurudwara Hemkund Sahib infused courage into the up-going pilgrims, saying: Buck up-you have done it-Gurudwara is just at hand-"Bole So Nihal Sat Sri Akal.. .etc.," The returning yatris were darting downwards whereas we were yet to reach our destination. Getting invigorated with the courage booster capsules, there was some load shedding of weariness in our bodies. By now, we were having a sense of fulfillment of our cherished objective-' Darshan Snaan' of Sri ‘Hemkund Sahib’.
www.hemkundji.com
No comments:
Post a Comment